From Alexander McQueen to Virgil Abloh when creative audacity wrote fashion history

From Alexander McQueen to Virgil Abloh when creative audacity wrote fashion history

A lot has changed, and today things continue to change rapidly in the digital society. In the last century, we have gone from the close relationship between the craftsman and the client, to the glamor of the world that nurtures imagination and desire, to the increasingly relevant new fashion icons. with profiles of international influencers. Since we talk about fashion and no longer just about clothes – even if both represent the cultural aromas of an era – a number of garments and accessories have shaped modernity with tastes and trends.

From Alexander McQueen to Virgil Abloh when creative audacity wrote fashion history

Turning back the history from the 19th century, the creator of the fashion industry “Haute Couture” was a “bearded man”, Charles Frederick Worth. He was the first to put his brand on top of the designs; He was also the first to create a true “fashion house” and recruit female tailors to carry out his final stages. And starting with Charles Frederick Worth, men have always been known to be in charge of engineering and design, while women will be buttoned, buttoned and dyed. It was from that moment on that the definition of “stylist” was born, a figure in Italy that acquires a more nuanced and functional image thanks to Made in Italy: the role is essentially a link between the industry.

fashion, buyers, public needs. It is a special artisan intelligence replete with industrial culture:Walter Albini – inventor of prêt-à-porter (a line of ready-to-wear, high-quality factory-made fashion.Although Prêt-à-porter is not necessarily mass-produced, it is). available to a wide range of customers and will be tailored in different sizes), while Gianni Versace aimed to create a dress in “mesh metal”. To do so, it challenged Italian textile production and thus the oroton dress was challenged Italian textile production and thus the oroton dress was challenged Italian textile production and thus the oroton dress was born.

Still distinct is the image of the fashion designer, who designed effectively with the intention of combining aesthetics with function. Often designers not only define themselves by their design, but can prepare their skills as a consultant: an example above all is Karl Lagerfeld, who freelanced in 1962. in the fashion sector in France, Italy, Great Britain and Germany. Karl worked for Chanel and Fendi at the same time, and was the first designer named to create a low-cost handbag collection at H&M.

Also not to be forgotten is Alexander McQueen, who in an 18-year career with his eponymous label and collections for Givenchy profoundly changed the idea of ​​a fashion show (Show Business): a dozen minutes. pure entertainment, including holograms, golden rain and fire circles,what turned McQueen into an absolute performer (remember Shalom Harlow getting spray-painted by a robot?). Among women, Miuccia Prada stands out for her ability to break the rules: on her debut, Miuccia told us that she is not a fashion designer, she simply identifies define yourself as “I am who I am”.

Then there is the silhouette of the creative director. Self- proclaimed born to be creative – Virgil Abloh, an intern at Fendi in 2009. It was at that moment that Karl Lagerfeld sensed Abloh’s potential by predicting that in the near future there would be fewer designers and more art directors. than. With her own label Off-White, Abloh capitalizes on the sensibility and desires of new generations who do not like the outdated and outdated dynamics of the fashion system, but seek flexibility. of language.

Not street-inspired couture (the birth of subcultures, from Vivienne Westwood’s punk to Yves Saint Laurent’s regret for not making jeans), but the director. Direct creative director creates a new fashion language by finding consensus among very young elements. Abloh has an engineering degree and a master’s in architecture,but Abloh loves being a diver – even with friend Kanye West –, experimenting with interiors (remember the collection for Ikea?) and jewelry. There are no limits, no borders, everything is happening: a continuous and acclaimed creative process from Millennials to Gen Z.

These ideas, approaches and sensibility in doing – often going against established dogmas or challenging marketing algorithms – have naturally led to various fashion revolutions: here is where the premise of the modern universe is vast and fascinating. A dimension that Charles Baudelaire identified in urban reality but which the creators summed up in the petite black dress by Coco Chanel, in jewels by Elsa Schiaparelli, in “New Look” by Christian Dior, in the Mary Quant miniskirt, Roy Halston pillbox hat, Pierre Cardin vinyl, Balenciaga baby doll dress, Yves Saint Laurent “Le Smoking” suit, unlined jacket structured by Giorgio Armani, red by Valentino,in Rei Kawakubo’s exploration of black art, in Prada’s nylon bag. Clothing or accessories appear as visions to those who have really shaped fashion, interpreting zeitgeists.

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