Hedi Slimane – the monster who turned around spectacularly french fashion

Hedi Slimane – the monster who turned around spectacularly french fashion

Talking about talent, Hedi is a freak, talking about how he took over fashion brands, Hedi can only be summed up by his name: the dictator who overturned the French fashion houses.

Hedi Slimane – the monster who turned around spectacularly french fashion

Born into a family with a mother and uncle who are seamstresses, since childhood, Hedi Slimane has practiced design. However, this rare talent intends to pursue a career in journalism because he is not satisfied with the fierce competition in the fashion industry. Fortunately, French fashion still has Hedi. In 1996, he marked the beginning of an era of “monstrous authorship” that began with Saint Laurent (then still known as Yves Saint Laurent).

Wherever he goes, Hedi’s designs seem to be eloquently declaring his boldness in expressing his own soul and substance, with drastic changes in the identity and names of high-class brands. the level is decades old. It is also because of this autocracy that Hedi has many times caused the fans to argue loudly because his own personality is so strong and different from the fashion house he takes over, but in fact, he is inherently a dictator. “Knowledgeable” with professional and commercial capabilities.

Since 1996, Hedi has held many important roles at the legendary French fashion brands Saint Laurent, Dior, and Celine. In each empire that Hedi reigned, though short, he always left important milestones. People not only remember Hedi Slimane for his genderless designs but also because his every move costs the press a lot of ink and makes the public stir. He is the “lobster” who separated “Yves” from Saint Laurent, turned Dior Monsieur into Dior Homme, and erased the identity that has existed for more than 70 years on the Celine logo.

Once trusted by Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé as the director of the menswear line in 1996, Hedi’s boldness has earned the brand a lot of attention from the public with its contrasting tight outfits. completely with the prevailing baggy style at the time. To this day, his Fall/Winter 2000 “Black Tie” is still one of the most influential collections in fashion history, because he not only left a craze for skinny pants that lasted for a decade. , but it was also the first time that men’s fashion became so “unruly”, rebellious, and flexible.

Hedi Slimane’s “heroin man” style was maintained and expanded most strongly in the period 2000 – 2007 at Dior. Hedi “refreshes” Dior Monsieur’s dignified “gentleman” image into softer beauty with Dior Homme, unveiling versatile designs through low-waist pleated skirts, flowing scarves, and printed pants leopard print.

The whole world went crazy over Hedi’s rebellion, including big names like Mick Jagger, David Bowie, and even Karl Lagerfeld. Only the monster Hedi and his unique talent can make the “silver-haired king” change his body to be able to wear the items he enchanted.

While it was thought he had discovered enough about Hedi’s style, his foray into women’s fashion upon his return to Saint Laurent in 2012 proved otherwise. Immediately after taking over the men’s and women’s fashion lines of the famous French fashion house, Hedi Slimane bridged the gender gap and launched collections suitable for both men and women. Chic leather biker jackets paired with rock-culture-inspired boots formed the iconic edgy glamor that remains to this day.

Hedi continued to expand his creative horizons with Celine when he assumed the position of creative director of the brand in 2018. The fashion house seems to have escaped the elegant Céline image that Phoebe Philo has worked so hard to build throughout. 10 years. Still pursuing a slim, seductive beauty, Hedi’s “drug-chic” designs transform the delicate woman of “Céline” into a free-spirited and sophisticated “Celine”. Hedi Slimane has successfully accomplished the unthinkable, which is to shake the foundations of French fashion houses every step of the way.

In the more than 26 years Hedi has worked hard to bring his ego into the world, he has faced a lot of criticism for his bold decisions. Critics and the public don’t seem to like an extravagant creative director like him. It’s hard to forget that the parody brand “Ain’t Saint Laurent Without Yves” was created by people not accepting the name change of the brand that has existed for more than half a century. People are also constantly referring to “Old Celine” as a way to disparage and deny Hedi’s contributions.

Criticism has also continued to be directed at Hedi for the figure of the model participating in the show, for the “template” of being super thin in a society that is trying to spread “body-positivity.” In fact, the “skinny” models below the weight standard are just a reflection of the designer’s own image, according to the words he shared:

Hedi is not trying to support the extreme beauty standards that the public ascribes to him, instead, he is also the victim of toxic male body stereotypes. It seems that public opinion always imposes a strange “double standard” on fashion genius, when other designers are allowed to bring personal elements into the collection, and when Hedi chooses models that are similar in terms of appearance. body with himself, he was entangled with criticism.

Hedi is not a rebel who insists on “destroying” old brands like the rumors. He is the one who has “changed blood” for French fashion houses with a style different from their inherent heritage, who has changed the identity of fashion giants. But the changes that Hedi creates are always a tribute and gratitude to the talents that came before, showing a “knowing” autocracy.

Hedi isn’t the one who bluntly “cut” Yves from Laurent, he’s just reintroducing the name of the ready-to-wear line when it first launched in 1966, with the name Saint Laurent Rive Gauche. Hedi also does not deny the classic handbag designs of Celine, the Celine Triomphe line that the designer introduced is a combination of the classic box bag shape, with the double C logo named Blazon Chain that the mother of the brand. brand – Mrs. Céline Vipiana launched in 1973.

Behind every name change and style change, Hedi was very persistent and worked hard so that his soul and talent could completely embrace these famous names. Those who don’t delve into the monstrosity and his creations will only approach creative ideas on the surface and find that what Hedi presents is so different from what they are familiar with back home. fashion. They completely ignore the meaning behind the new modifications but are extremely respectful of the old legacy of their predecessors.

Despite criticism for the authoritarian “autocratic” way of working, French luxury brands under Hedi always achieved commercial success. At Saint Laurent, the designer increased the brand’s revenue from $400 million to $1 billion. Hedi also brought Celine’s name to the Asian market when shaking hands with many famous global artists such as BLACKPINK Lisa, BTS V.

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