Under the guidance of Artistic Director Virginie Viard, the CHANEL Fall Winter 2023 Collection is like a spring garden after the rain, with camellia flowers “blooming” on every yard of fabric: woven into each tweed, attached on trousers, painted with white feathers on knits, and can be found hidden in floral prints.
Chanel autumn-winter collection 2023: the camellia season blooms in the heart of France
Camellia blooms in Paris – it’s the first optimistic sign of spring, despite the cold weather here. Perhaps that is also the reason that Coco Chanel considers camellia as one of the hallmarks of her brand. The first time she attached flowers to a dress was in 1923. Perhaps the sense of camellia’s enduring vitality was imprinted in Virginie Viard’s mind when she chose it as the centerpiece of the collection. My CHANEL Fall Winter 2023?
In the space covered by the magical black color of the Grand Palais Éphémère, a giant camellia flower, white, shows off its elegance in the center of the stage. On the chair of each guest is also placed a white camellia flower. After more than a century of “serving” as a humble detail on clothing, jewelry, accessories and make-up, the CHANEL logo is finally at the heart of a collection.
Coco Chanel’s camellia is used liberally but also with character, through the lens of Viard’s refined aesthetic. The first is the embroidered camellia flowers interspersed with the typical tweed jacket’s checkered pattern. Next, camellias are attached in clusters on the lapels of leather jackets; woven into beautiful lace patterns on knitted fabrics; Silver buttons carved into graceful camellias, etc.
After that, camellias took on new “looks” forms, “blossoming” even on denim, and bags were also decorated with flowers. With a large size, there is even a bag style that simulates a blooming camellia flower. The camellia blends abstractly with the interlocking “C” logo in a bold, mod print. Camellia flowers are shrunk in size, scattered like polka dots on knit sweaters and coats. Camellia flowers are everywhere,
Besides the familiar tweed jackets, quilted bags, black dresses, etc., Virginie Viard has brought to the Paris catwalk some new outfits that are much different from the usual formality of CHANEL. Instead of flared pants and sharp pencil skirts, two-piece sets are preferred with short pants: fitted cycling shorts, knee-length pants, and floral print shorts. The most sophisticated costumes also stop at camellia-printed silk dresses, worn in layers with knitted tops to bring flexibility to the designs. Bermuda cuts, lace cycling shorts, tweed pants, and an asymmetrical dress give a Viardian twist to a classic CHANEL.
Like a lot of the collections that we have seen this fashion month, the CHANEL Fall Winter 2023 collection mainly uses two colors black and white, with delicate pink and red accents. “Fade colors, dark pinks, handcrafted pieces, touches of the 1960s and 70s, a hint of British vibes, comfortable, snug jackets, signature materials, make the collections become more authentic and also more captivating.” – Virginie Viard shared about this latest collection.
She also expressed her admiration for CHANEL’s iconic flower: “The camellia is not just a theme, it is the eternal ‘code’ of the house. I find it reassuring and familiar, I like its softness and strength.” Without fragrance or thorns, camellia is a simple flower, with a layered petal arrangement that creates its soft yet sturdy shape. Like CHANEL, camellia exudes luxury and beauty in a complex way, but its strength lies in its consistency.
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