In charge of the important jewelry segment of the fashion houses, the talents of the Creative Directors are confirmed by the masterpieces of high-value jewelry.
4 talented masters behind the glittering aura of high jewelry
It is no exaggeration to compare them – the Creative Directors of the jewelry line – to the wizards of the gem world. With passion, rich imagination, soaring creativity, and knowledge in the field of crafting, they have created impossibly beautiful jewelry of immense value, and those who own it are appreciated. feel proud.
It is beautiful and sparkling, but jewelry making is a profession that originated with men because this job requires artisans who are not only knowledgeable about minerals but also have to be exposed to high temperatures and other tools. Special tools that require physical strength.
According to the flow of time and the development of society, the jewelry design industry has had more participation of women. It’s Elsa Schiaparelli , Suzanne Belperron or Margaret De Patta. Most notably, Tiffany & Co. with most of the designers is women, including Elsa Peretti with contemporary art-shaped jewelry and silver jewelry craze; or Paloma Picasso famous for his graffiti-inspired jewelry.
In the modern context, many fashion brands have begun to enter the high-end jewelry market, where, taking on creative leadership positions are talented designers regardless of male or female.
Previously held the position of female design director of Tiffany & Co. As well as at Chanel and Fendi with her extensive education in the fields of design and art, Francesca has become the brightest face of LVMH’s choice for the position of Artistic Director of Louis Vuitton Watches and Jewelry. in 2018.
Like other fashion brands, jewelry is a potential new land for Louis Vuitton and Francesca’s mission is to continue that success and create designs that embody the brand’s spirit. This is a perfect match because it seems that the personality of the new Louis Vuitton woman and Francesca have many similarities.
It is the image of a modern, independent, bold and prominent urban woman, but not ostentatious, clearly reflected in the way the classic B Blossom collection was enlarged in size or streamlined. on the LV Volt Collection.
Even with the highest level of high jewelry, Francesca integrates strong and modern personalities into every detail of the cut stone to the whole. Whether it’s space travel in the Stellar Times collection or the inspiration for Joan of Arc’s feminist bravery in the Riders of the Knights collection.
With the Spirit collection released this year, Francesca reveals the sublimation of the story told by jewelry. Inspired by myths and mystical creatures in a 21st-century re-emergence, the designs convey messages of strength, energy, and optimism.
But whether traveling to the past or the future, reality or fantasy, the spirit of discovery in Louis Vuitton’s “The Art of Travel” still reigns in Francesca’s creations. Perhaps because she herself is also a global citizen with three American, Italian, Russian bloodlines with a Japanese birthplace and working in Europe and America, she has partly created a strong, always curious nature. and accept every challenge in her. So compatible, if not Francesca Amfitheatrof at Louis Vuitton, who else?
The period of time Victoire de Castellane worked at one of the largest fashion houses in the world is a number that many designers dream of but few achieve. If the Dior purse is the brightest jewel in the LVMH crown, the jeweler there is the brand’s precious treasure. Over 20 years in charge of Dior’s high-end jewelry division, Victoire de Castellane has given wings to the strength of the “beloved” brand of tycoon Bernard Arnault.
Coming to Dior since 1999, Victoire is the one who laid the foundation for Haute Couture’s high-end jewelry line. Among the other long-standing giants of the Paris jewelry world, she has gradually brought the position of Dior Haute Joaillerie into the playground of few people, but it is not easy to recruit more. Victoire’s design style combines the real and virtual worlds, bringing the beautiful elements of dreams to life and breathing life into the precious raw materials of nature to turn them into artistic jewelry. vivid art.
Becoming a jewelry maker was perhaps Victoire’s destiny from birth. With a family close to the nobility, business and fashion, she has been acquainted and lived in the world of glittering and valuable items since childhood. Entrusted to Chanel’s design studio and led directly by Karl Lagerfeld from the age of 14, Victoire gradually became the fashion designer of the fashion house for 14 years before coming to Dior. Despite many backs, Victoire’s name is confirmed by her own talent when jewelry and watchmaking is an inherently male territories, and to survive in this world the most essential thing. is still power.
Victoire’s love of gems and jewelry is as abundant as his wild imagination. That’s how she sees rainbows and sunlit deep blue ocean waters as she looks from above in her favorite Peruvian Blue opal. Or the way she remains faithful and believes in the distinct beauty made from traditional crafting techniques, instead of applying popular advanced technologies.
Two decades have passed and Victoire de Castellane’s career in the jewelry world has entered a new decade. The future is unpredictable, but for someone like Victoire who wants to change and innovate, we can expect to see her unexpected masterpieces in the years to come.
As the “national god” of Chanel’s high-end jewelry line, Patrice Leguéreau is considered an equally important factor next to Karl Lagerfeld at this fashion house. It is not easy for a fashion brand to enter a new field that is extremely demanding, but Chanel seems to have made the right decision when choosing Patrice as a pave.
With a deep background in art in general and jewelry making in particular, and many years of experience
at famous jewelry houses such as Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, Patrice Leguéreau’s name has already been
affirmed. determined long ago. At Chanel, it was an opportunity as well as a challenge because he was free to go on his adventure and start the first high-jewelry concepts for the fashion house.
Patrice finds inspiration from her founder, Gabrielle Chanel, from her zodiac sign, perfumery, love of pearls or camellias, quilting or tweed motifs, to “destined” landmarks. like Russia. Regarding jewelry orientation, he aims at youthfulness and sophistication. Patrice noticed that people wearing Chanel clothes are getting younger and more active and like to go to many places. Therefore, the jewelry they wear also needs to be easy to coordinate with many outfits and anywhere.
With the artist’s artistic perspective, Patrice has turned jewelry into a work of art such as paintings or reliefs. Sharp, delicate, and sparkling, Patrice’s jewelry is like a luxury item that helps its owner shine more without stealing that aura.
When asked what he would like people to remember about him at Chanel, Patrice reiterated that Gabrielle had only one high jewelry collection in her career and it was made for women. True to the spirit of high-end jewelry but still applied to women, he wants people to remember him as a successor to inherit and continue what the founder started and do it in a profound way. fully understood.
In the jewelry world, multi-talented designer Pierre Hardy can be compared to a chameleon. Passionate about art, design, and
dance, Pierre started out as a fashion illustrator. The job of designing shoes came to him after working at Christian Dior and then in charge of both men’s and women’s footwear lines at Hermès before launching his own brand. The turning point in his career came in 2001 when he was promoted to the position of Creative Director of the Hermès jewelry line.
Although he does not have a solid background in jewelry making like other colleagues, Pierre Hardy still succeeds in the high-end jewelry line of the most luxurious fashion brand in Paris with his unique style and taste. It’s unique and modern. With a passion for cinema, architecture, graphics, cars, and movement, he infuses Hermès jewelry with a spirit of elegance, luxury, and sophistication.
For Pierre, jewelry has a close relationship with people because we come into contact with them directly and closer than clothes. Therefore, each of his creations is a careful calculation and selection of materials and colors so that the final work can blend or enhance the wearer’s skin tone. His passion for anatomy and body movement also drives him to thoughtfully create jewelry that feels comfortable and moves naturally. For example, bracelets he likened to blood vessels or the flow of soft water moving through the fingers.
The softness of Pierre Hardy’s jewelry is most evident in The Lignes Sensibles collection, especially the Contre la Peau necklace. Referred to by him as a second skin, the necklace is made up of many gold links, each intersection is a sparkling diamond, hugging to fit the wearer’s neck.
Not only shoes and jewelry, but Pierre also designs for Hermès cosmetics line launching in 2020, showing his abundant inspiration and unrelenting energy with fashion. It is also the spirit that makes the difference of the Hermès high-end jewelry line between the old jewelry fashion houses as well as the “players” who joined at the same time.
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